“The Heart of Things”: Day Three (Part One) of Kat’s (not quite) Epic Christmas/New Years 2008 (and technically 2009) Trip (of wonderfulness)

On Christmas day, I left behind my Hanto friends to get into Kumamoto-shi.  I will admit, it was very odd to not only not celebrate Christmas (which I’d done before in China–watched an entire season of Charmed in one day) but to also do it alone.  Granted, Japan is very festive around Christmas.  Like many Americans, they like all the bling but not so much the story and reasoning behind it.  In any case, I got to Kumamoto-shi after a harrowing ferry ride (actually it wasn’t that bad) and long bus ride (not that long, though that whole paying thing really tripped me up) at around five pm.  Being as by five pm most tourist attractions are closed, I decided to just wander around the city to see what was what.

Ended up going around in circles but several important things happened:

1. I found the Starbucks!!!  (I find that in America I rarely go to Starbucks or like coffee places–only deigning to accompany my friends at which point I may or may not get a Chai.  However, whenever I’m abroad I search out the foreign coffee places–be it Starbucks, Seattle’s Best, or Tully’s–with a fervor most people find highly entertaining, but some find a little scary.)
2. Bought myself a shiny new amethyst necklace for Christmas.  (This was done while slightly tipsy, I won’t lie.)
3. Watched Japanese people make Spanish food… with chopsticks.  They also fell prey to the neverending Japanese assumption that the only form of pasta is spaghetti.  ::sigh::  I ate an anchovie and tomato pizza with two glasses of wine.  Delicious.
4. I started reading some short stories by Haruki Murakami.  I decided he’s amazing.  (Though he’s not quite as amazing as Soseki, but then no one is.)

In any case, I got to sleep at around ten pm (after chatting with some other travellers), which left me bright eyed and bushy-tailed for the morning.

Another English-speaking tourist left a very kind note for Natsume Soseki.

December 26th dawned bright and slightly cool.  I found my way downtown much easier than the night before–turns out when one leaves the hostel one should turn left rather than right.  That made it simple to catch a bus and/or tram that brought me straight down to see Kumamoto-jo.  I had three things on the List I Wanted to Accomplish.  First, wander around Kumamoto-jo.  Second, find Natsume Soseki’s house.  Third, go to the beautiful Suizenji Park.  I managed to do all three, but don’t ask me how as half the time I walked around I was convinced I was lost.  I also did even more than expected, which was awesome.  I think it’s because I started early.

So, Kumamoto-jo (or rather, Kumamoto Castle for those who don’t speak some 日本語) was initially built some time during the 1600s.  It passed through many hands until the Satsuma Rebellion (the events which inspired the Epic Tom Cruise Movie The Last Samurai, in case anyone cares).  At this point, it was burned down.  Then, in 1960, the Kumamoto and/or Japanese government decided that it needed to inspire more tourism so it built this fancy schmancy replica.  I’d become accustomed to Eastern concepts of “preserving the past” while in China, so the fact that a “400 year old castle” looked more like something with modern tools made to look old did not surprise me too much.

Anyway, it’s pretty cool.

From the... south side?

Even in winter (though I grant you, it was a very nice winter day), the castle shined.  It was gorgeous.  I can’t imagine what it would look like with either snow, fall foliage, or cherry blossoms floating around it.  I especially liked that, being as I went fairly early in the morning, the place wasn’t swarming with tourists–always nice for picture taking when one doesn’t have a tripod.  I could have gone for some more interesting clouds in the sky, but we can’t always get what we want, eh?

No you cant always get what you want... but sometimes... (dum dum dum) You get what you nee-eed!

It wasn’t a very difficult walk to the top, despite me being very out of shape.  Although the castle is all recently built (but still very cool), they have a number of really interesting pieces of history–many swords, uniforms, and other items used by soldiers during the Satsuma Rebellion.  Also a couple of really fancy sets of samurai armor, which I drooled over.  As much as I would have loved to share the pictures with you, there was an obvious “NO PHOTO” sign.  And sadly, it’s hard to be sneaky with a camera the size of a small country.

The top had most excellent views of Kumamoto city.  I found the set up similar to both Nagasaki and Fukuoka, a nice green town surrounded by hills and/or mountains.  (Depending on what your definition of a mountain is.)  However, Kumamoto was very definitely less populated–or at the very least, there was a smaller amount of buildings in the immediate vicinity.  I find that, of the major cities I’ve been to in Kyushu, so far Kumamoto-shi is my favorite.

Got some clouds here... thank goodness.

I think this is the north side of the city... maybe...

In any case, after I left Kumamoto-jo, I went on the Quest to Find Natsume Soseki’s house, which I could tell just by the way the city was laid out that it would not be easy to find.  On the way I stopped at the Kumamoto Traditional Craft’s Museum (the Modern Art Museum was closed for the holidays, I was so le sad), which was actually more interesting than I thought it would be.  Worth my 200 yen, at least.  I wanted to buy an intricately built 8000 yen paper lantern, but I decided that 8000 yen would be put to good use later.  (Which it was –> helicopter!)

In any case, after much turning, sitting, and confusion, eventually I spotted the signs that led me to the house.  Did you know that “Natsume” is literally “Eye of Summer”?  I thought that was pretty interesting.  And then I felt lame because I’d never seen Soseki’s name written in Japanese before…

In any case, I seriously got tingles as soon as I stepped through the gates.  Though unassuming, the house definitely had a good, old-fashioned feel to it.  Huge, too.  Several of the rooms were ten mats which meant, despite being only one floor, it was about twice the size of my house.  It also had a gorgeous garden.  Even though I couldn’t read most of the signs, I loved walking through it, thinking that Soseki had walked through it, too (albeit for probably only about five months). 

 

I am such a sucker for the mustaches... (Yes, that is supposed to be Soseki).

ZOMFG!!!!

The above, though I could be wrong, is an original draft of Soseki’s Kokoro (literally, The Heart, or the Heart of Things).  Next to it they had another notebook from Botchan.  I literally got chills as I stared at it.  Though not my favorite book, it was that one which started my obsession with Soseki.  I wasn’t sure if I was allowed to take pictures of it–couldn’t see any signs like in Kumamoto-jo, at least–but I did it without the flash on so it shouldn’t hurt anything.  Seriously, the entire business was amazing.

By this time it was nearing one in the afternoon, so I popped over to Starbucks (a good 10 or 15 minute walk from Soseki’s house) to get some food and then took the tram up to Suizenji.

Stay tuned for our next installment: finishing Kumamoto-shi.  Then hopefully we’ll get to Aso-san.  At some point.

Oh man, he has got to be rolling over in his grave at this juxtaposition of traditional and modern... Made me crack up.

 

“Welcome to Obama!”: Days One and Two of Kat’s (Not Quite) Epic Christmas/New Year 2008 (and technically 2009) Trip (of wonderfulness)

It didn’t take me too long to plan my trip over winter vacation.  I couldn’t go anywhere too far away because I hadn’t saved the money nor bought the plane ticket, so I figured the time had begun to continue crossing things off The List.  As such I chose to go to Kumamoto, a thoroughly B-E-A-Utiful place, in case anyone was wondering.  As easy as it would have been to go from Fukuoka straight to Kumamoto, I decided to take the long-ish way so I could visit the friends down at the Hanto for Christmas.  I’m a social creature, what can I say?  I like being around people for holidays. 

As a teaser:

There are actually two towns in Japan with the name Obama.

So I got to Shimabara and immediately set about spending money (by eating lunch at a Chinese restaurant) and baking (an Apple Pie, as promised to Sabsy).  We ended up having this huge feast (by Japanese proportions) involving pineapple, pumpkin soup (delicious!), apple pie, and pizza.  Other things were planned, but alas, we got so very lazy.  I also watched Love, Actually, a necessary addition to any holiday gathering.  By the way, though I do not recommend nonfat milk for Egg Nogg, it works quite well for most other things, thank you. 

The hour grew late and, unlike myself, Sabsy, James, and Tom had to work in the morning, so Sabsy and I drove back to her place for some much needed rest. 

The next day, I decided to hang out in Sabsy’s town of work: OBAMA!!!  As soon as she told me she worked in such a mythological town, I knew I had to visit and take lots of pictures of me acting like an idiot, preferably around signs that also said “Obama.”  While I did not quite accomplish the latter (a difficult task whilst wandering around alone) the town, though small, was actually quite enjoyable. 

Obama in Japanese literally means “Small Beach.”  This particular town, close as it is to Unzen, is both an onsen village and a fishing village.  It’s really rather quaint (though I like Iki better…) and had a number of nice parks.  I also may have fallen asleep on one of the park benches.  But let’s not talk about that.

If you read Japanese, you know that says Welcome to Obama.

Steam from the sulfuric gases rising into the air. I loves me some sulfuric gases.

I think the town Sabsy actually lives in is the one across the way in the misty-romantic mountains.

So I probably walked about two or three kilometers when I finally found “Obama,” the small beach.  Really very small.  And also pretty dirty.  It was right next to a tiny port with plenty of boats.  This place offered me a great amount of entertainment.  I dangled my legs over the concrete edge to take a bit of rest, and while I sat, a man about seventy feet away opened up and peed into the water as if it were no one’s business, and another man half in drag went to pray at the nearby tori honoring the sea and the sailors.  Yeah.  Obama = rock. 

It was from this vantage point that the man peed. Hey, when you have to go, you have to go.

Anyway, I pushed myself to my feet after overcoming from a fit of the giggles and glided my way back into the “downtown area” to the tune of several Christmas songs I’d purchased on iTunes during the previous two weeks.  The weather wasn’t particularly balmy, but I walked enough to feel a bit toasty, so I took a break at the “Marine Park.”  It was here that I ran into my second exposure to Japanese Culture:

Peeeerdy Kittyyyyy...

So I sat down to take a breather and possibly open up Jane Austen’s Persuasion, when instead this beautiful cat approached and demanded attention.  Though afraid of fleas, worms, ringworm, lice… really, anything under the sun, I still couldn’t resist temptation and set forth on the Epic Petting Spree.  Though I will admit I tried my best to keep the fur off my shiny new coat.  I figured it couldn’t be too diseases or anything since the baby seemed very well fed–which to me means he or she had owners.  In any case, all was going well, there was much meowing and purring involved (on the cat’s part… maybe…) when all of a sudden I lost my companion!

A Cat, thine heart is as fickle as the wind upon my breast...

Didn’t see heads of the cat after that, only its tail as it gleefully followed its new attention provider.  Apparently exercise is way more of an attractor than my own (not-so) potent charms.  Oh, my heart, how it ached (mostly because I started running). 

Rejected, I got some late breakfast, wandered to another park (where I slept on the bench), realized I was really cold, found a small “French” cafe, and hunkered down for the long haul.  I sat there for nearly four hours, drinking tea and ordering the occasional cake, until Sabsy finished at school.  I also almost finished Persuasion, which I had just begun that morning on the aforementioned park bench.  Really good book, actually.  I liked it better than both Emma and Sense and Sensibility, though nothing can ever beat Pride and Prejudice.  Still have two more of her books to read… but I’ll get there eventually.

In any case, we travelled back to Shimabara where James made us some most excellent lamb, Tom got really sick, and I eventually went to sleep after watching “Tropic Thunder” (=hilarious.  My favorite movie with Tom Cruise in it, definitely). 

Next on the adventure: Kumamoto City!  Stay tuned… tomorrow.  I don’t want to overwhelm all three of you. 

 

To keep you entertained…

…for at least a few minutes, I gift to you several of the good times that were had whilst I travelled throughout Shimabara, Kumamoto, and Fukuoka. (Mostly because I have taken OH SO MANY pictures and I figured that until I edit them, you’ll have no idea how wonderful my time was–because it was teh uber wonderful.  So here’s a few bits and pieces.)

• Made a rockin’ apple pie despite the shortening being all… hard and frozen like. 
• Wandered around Obama (yes, Obama… it’s a city…)
• Ate far too many Sour Cream and Onion Pringles
• Walked (all together over the ten days) more than 50km, I would estimate.
• Sang really loudly to myself (Disney songs, as well as several others, after my iPod battery died) while hiking up and down the side of a volcano
• Got to see a Rhinosaurus dance (he had sweet moves)
• Reached the goal
• Road in a helicopter
• Ate more horse
• Visited a temple that has a history of over 1000 years and acted as an impromptu (and somewhat dirty-mouthed) tour guide for my fellow foreigners
• Bought way too much stuff at uniqlo (but now I have more clothes!  And a dress!  SQUEE)
• Ate a Costco Hot Dog (sadly not Hebrew National)
• Played the eHarmony game with Christine (far more entertaining than I could have imagined)
• Saw some dolphins do dolphin-y tricks
• Watched the craziest damn South Korean movie.  I tell ya, they know how to make them some “Are you sure you weren’t high when you wrote this?” movies that will entertain the bejesus out of you.

It was a rockin’ time, everything went as well as I could have hoped–and often better.  I look forward to sharing more with you in the future…

Happy 2009!

 

Merry Christmas or… well, whateva you celebrate

Because here in Japan, we really have “Christmas.”

I miss everybody, and I hope your holiday season is bright. Will update soon with New Years and traveling awesomeness.

 

Just like Christmas!

So in the last few weeks I have recieved several packages, each one just as amazing as the last.  They made me squee with glee and clap my hands, bounce around, do a little dance of happiness. 

1) From the Mommy.  Tons of jelly eyeballs to give to my kids for Halloween.  “Winter” clothes (I need to buy a winter coat next month in Nagasaki).  Chocolate Malted Milk Powder so I can make Chocolate Malt Bars. 

2) From Flying Pig.  This is Costco in Japan, and they have many, many western items that you just cannot find on my tiny little island, albeit in large quantities.  I got dried mango (a current addiction), a region-less DVD player (yay!), and some fabric softener for when I run out (I use a powder detergent, and we don’t have dryers, so the clothes/towels can get mighty stiff without fabric softener).  We tried to get cheese, but they were sold out.  This weekend, I will be getting a DIFFERENT block of cheese (half of a two-pounder of Colby Jack) and Hershey Kisses so I can make Holiday Poppyseed cookies.  HUZZAH!

The first book of Robin D Owens series.

3) Just now: Books from amazon.co.jp.  Didn’t have to pay any shipping and they had everything I wanted–in English!  Got Brisingr (not sure whether it will be good, but I read the other two and I thought they were OK.  I’m not that picky).  I’ll be reading it first because I don’t know when I’ll be able to stop with the other ones.  The other ones being the remaining books in Robin D Owens “Heart Mate” series that I haven’t read yet.  If you like fantasy/sci fi romance, these are some of the best books on the market.  Mostly fantasy, but the futuristic Earth setting makes it slightly sci fi.  And the second book in the series is more sci fi since the Hero doesn’t have any psychic powers.

Looking forward to some great reads.  Atonement and Murakami’s Blind Willow, Sleeping Woman, move aside, I’ve got some literature to read. 

 

Guess that means I won’t be writing my book today… ah well… there’s always November.  And hey, it’s “genre research,” right?